Gary Buffington's Bike Ride Across America

A 62 year old retired ER doctor and former Appalachian Trail end-to-end hiker attempts to ride his bike across America from the Pacific to the Atlantic. He rode 1100 miles last year and has 527 miles planned for this 2007 trip. His 85 year old friend, Cimarron the Trail Boss, has also walked the entire AT (in his 82nd and 83rd years) and will crew from a 1995 VW EuroVan.

Thursday, November 02, 2006

Definitely Finished for 2006 at the Blue Ridge Parkway

Miles Today 2.5; This Section 224.5 (9 days); Trans-Am Miles 1066.6 (32 days)

We returned to the starting point by 8:30 AM. It had rained all night but was now stopped. The wind was out of the West at 15 but I was to start on the Leeward side of the Blue Ridge and climb to the top about 1000 feet of elevation gain. The TB was fearful of driving the truck up the steepness and I wasn’t too confident myself. We got unloaded and I pedaled about 50 yards and then got off to push, as it was too steep. I pushed about a mile and then was able to pedal a quarter mile. The switchbacks were so sharp as my Dad used to say, “you could look out the window and kiss your own ass as you went around!”

We passed through the city of Afton, VA, population about 10, and soon out onto Highway 50 the old road over the mountain before I-64. Route 10 is a four lane and more gently switched. I pushed about a half mile and pedaled a half-mile to the Rock Fish Gap, elevation 1850’ sign. The wind was howling at the gap and I was glad to get into the visitor center and have a cup of Coffee. The attendants were very informative and showed me a stature of Robert E. Lee. We discussed the Appalachian Trail that comes through the gap and that Millie and I walked in 2000. The Afton Hotel on top of the mountain is still a dump they say. It was a dump in 2000 also when we stayed there, but a pleasant stop on a rainy trail day. Apparently one man owns everything on the top of the mountain and would rather see it deteriorate than sell it.

It was so cold and windy that I had no interest in riding any down the Blue Ridge Parkway. Rock Fish Gap was my destination on this section and I wanted time to go to Monticello and the Lake Ann Nuclear Power site on the way to my daughter’s in Fredericksburg, VA. Cimarron had already called his wife and promised he’d be 1000 miles home faster than physically possible so now we had time constraints.

We drove the truck some 12 miles down the parkway and picked up a hiker who had been injured and was walking the road out to the Gap. We had no room in the front so the TB gave him a blanket and he road in the bed of the pickup almost freezing but glad to save 10 miles of walking that day. He knew a lot of our hiker friends and so we had much pleasant conversation at the visitor center.

So, the Trans-Am riding for 2006 is finished. My good buddy Cimarron the Trail Boss did a fabulous job in taking care of me for 1066.5 miles across America. We have covered Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and half of Montana and Virginia. It’s been much fun and adventure and will be continued next spring, summer, and fall. We’ve completed 28% of the Trans-Am ride.

Wednesday, November 01, 2006

Learning to Shift on the way to the Blue Ridge Parkway

Miles Today 32; This Section 222 (8 days); Trans-Am Miles 1064.1 (31 days)

We had a very relaxing night at the motel last night. On the way back from the Halloween celebration we stopped for dinner at the all you can eat buffet. We both over ate and it was good. There were a lot of fat people in there who consumed even more than us. In the room I worked on the Blog for three hours and the TB slept after he picked up the laundry. He had to come back for the laundry ticket, saying as he laughed loudly “no tickee no laundry.” However, I was so relaxed into the Blog writing that I stayed up until half an hour past midnight. So getting up this morning was not easy and the TB had already been down to complain about the breakfast, bought a USA Today, got me a French Vanilla Cappuccino, and was sitting in the bathroom reading about his stocks so the light wouldn’t bother me! What a Trail Boss I have. So I got up and read the paper for an hour. He decided it was time for a nap and said, “I’ll get up when I see some action towards the door.” It reminds me of the times when I was in marathon training and would get “stale.” I’d get dressed to run and wander around the house for an hour and finally Millie would say, “Look, you’re not going, so put your clothes on!” And she was usually right, and this was one of those days. But finally I got going and we drove over to the starting point on the eastern side of Charlottesville.

Immediately the route goes into town up a very steep hill, and I had to push the Stallion on up. About half way up a crew was putting a new copper roof and gutters on a home. I have read recently about the great increase in copper prices even to the point where thieves are risking electrocution to steal copper wire. So I asked the contractor, who turned out to also be the homeowner, about the expense of the roof. It was a 2000 square foot roof and was going to cost $15,000 to replace with the “Philadelphia Gutters.” We went into great detail that the roof would last 80 years and in the long run (when we are all dead) will cost less than a shingle roof. It was the most beautiful roof I ever saw.

Charlottesville is a beautiful city and quite hilly I found out presently! The University of Virginia Grounds are intertwined with the city on the western side of town. As one leaves the city streets to the grounds streets the only indication is a large “V” painted on the street. I soon passed the old medical school complex, which is now a pediatric clinic and found a coffee shop across the street in the middle of the campus. As I sat and had a decaf coffee and a nice muffin I spoke with the clerk Harper Helen. Harper says he has a great job meeting interesting people and serving coffee to cute college girls all day. As he says, “someone has to do it.” As I talked with Harper there were several living proofs come in and order a $5 Espresso. My decaf was $1.25. Harper has a master’s degree in Russian Studies and says he wished these college kids knew about the Russian and German failures of social governments and says he’s sick of hearing them complain about Wal-Mart! His wife is a pediatrician and works across the street so she takes breaks and eats lunch at the coffee shop. He pointed out that when I had an Internship interview at the University of Virginia I probably was at the old medical school building, but I don’t remember.

As I pedaled on through “The Grounds” it was a busy place. There were thousands of kids all hustling back and forth carrying books, riding bikes, and all talking on cell phones. To whom are they speaking? And what do they need to be talking about? And is there value in the cost of the phone service? Also, all the students cross streets just like the citizens of Seattle. It’s their right to cross at a “walk signal” and they don’t even look for the traffic, which they “know” will stop if the sign says so. Oh, what faith they have. And how slowly the traffic moves all jammed up waiting for the strolling pedestrians. I wanted to run down a few of them just for sport!

In another block I went by the Rotunda. I asked three people what was in the Rotunda. They all said, “It’s the round building.” Not one knew what it houses today, but all responded that Thomas Jefferson designed it. They know their history, but not their present!

As I left the campus I saw “The Charlottesville Business Machine Company” advertising Typewriters in the window. Some of these college kids don’t even know what a typewriter is. And if you had one, what would you do with it. I’m 61 years old and can hardly remember the function of a typewriter! The kids do not take typing any longer—they take keyboarding!

Within a mile we exited State Route 250 onto County Road 677 and were immediately out in the boondocks again. The road was a narrow country lane about 1.5 lanes wide with no markers, little traffic, rolling hills, frequent new half million dollar homes and beautiful fall foliage. This was a great opportunity to learn gear shifting on the bike. I would go down a quarter mile hill in 18th gear (of 27) and up the next quarter mile in 1st gear (of 27) perhaps 20 times a mile. As I got further from Charlottesville the hills got longer and I did some significant huffing and puffing to keep the Stallion going. In 1st gear I pedal at 75 rotations per minute and the bike goes 4 mph. At 3 mph the bike falls over as in the old Laugh-In comedy routine. It’s a lot of fun!

Just a mile short of White Hall (population 15) I met Liz and Heidi “The Bikergrrls” as they call themselves as they pedal across country eastward. They are 22 and 24 years old. They started in Portland, Oregon, in July and are now 205 miles from the finish in Yorktown, VA. They have a Blog at www.bikergrrls.blogspot.com (yes, it’s grrls). Both are recent college graduates. Heidi has a boyfriend jealous at home waiting for her and Liz is looking for a boyfriend and hasn’t found him on the bike ride! Liz said she saw some potential in pictures along the way but the guys were all too far ahead to catch! Heidi comes from a cycling family and her parents own a bike shop in Kansas. They sure carried a lot of stuff with 4 panniers and a giant (3 foot diameter) bag on top of the back fender. The only thing I can imagine in that bag would be a 3 or 4-inch foam pad rolled up! The girls have broken one spoke and only had about 5 flats. They have had no other major bike mechanical problems. There most exciting night was one they spent sleeping in a bathroom in the Teton’s, but they saw no bear. They took my picture as the last Trans-Am biker they are likely to see and said it will be on the Blog; however, they point out they haven’t updated their blog since Berea, Kentucky some 500 miles back!

At White Hall is the Wyant Country Store with owner Larry Wyant behind the counter. Larry’s family has had the store for over 100 years and the present building was built in 1919 after a fire destroyed the place. The big sellers are cigarettes, coffee, beer, and delicious soup. I had Creamy Cheese Potato Soup and it was great served with a huge pack of saltine crackers and washed down with a $1.69 bottle of grapefruit juice. Larry had groceries and other sundries and some antique goods for sale. I saw a Parkleigh sled hanging from a nail for sale for $29.99. That’s like an American Flyer with metal runners and wooden platform and stearable from the front runners. I bought it for $25. Larry laughed heartily as it was 72 degrees outside and I bought a sled in White Hall, VA, population 25. The TB (driving the pickup truck) wandered how we’d transport it! And Larry said we could drag it behind the bike. Then a woman customer came in and wandered if I was “transitioning from bike to sled.” I thought she was Larry’s wife, but they had never met. All got a real charge out of the sled purchase.

Now that I had ‘wasted” all this time, it was almost certain I would not make it up the big climb to the Blue Ridge Parkway today. I had gone 19 miles in over four hours, and had the toughest 15 miles of my biking career to go with the last three miles a probable walk to Rock Fish Gap.

I pedaled my best, but the hills were more steep and longer and the going was slow. Finally after passing multiple peach orchards and two vineyards and winery’s I couldn’t pedal any longer and was reduced to a walk just before dusk. On the peak about 1000 feet up I could see the Afton Inn, a dumpy motel Millie and stayed in on our Appalachian Trail thru-hike 6 years ago. The TB came by and I sent him ahead to check out the steepness, but when I walked around the next switchback the road ahead was steeper and I retired for the day. When the TB came back down he looked like he had seen a ghost saying the road was so steep he thought he would never get to turn around and come back. We’ll do it tomorrow and I doubt I’ll pedal much.

I figured we’d quit tomorrow and head for home after we reach the Blue Ridge Parkway, but Cimarron the Trail Boss wants to go down the BRP for a ways, so that’s the plan. It’s only about 2.5 more miles up to the BRP and then we will have done 224 miles on this trip across Virginia. I’m a much better cyclist than I was out west, and the bike is functioning perfectly. I read about a bike being comfortable, and thought it impossible. But I must say that I am comfortable riding this bike. My neck does not hurt, my butt feels fine, my arms are relaxed, and my legs are strong. I like this bike touring!